El Salto during the wintertime.
When climbers think about multipitch climbing in Mexico, El Potrero Chico is often the first spot that comes to mind. Known for its towering limestone walls and classic routes, El Potrero is home to some of the most iconic climbs in the world. Climbs like El Sendero Luminoso (5.12d/7c), made famous by Alex Honnold’s free solo ascent, Time Wave Zero (5.12a/7a+), a 23-pitch endurance monster, soloed by Jose Iñiges, Yankee Clipper, and Space Boyz (5.10d/6b+), are just a few of the renowned routes that have drawn climbers from around the globe to this climbing mecca.
However, just a short drive away, lies a lesser-known paradise for hard sport climbing and extreme multipitches. Welcome to El Salto, Mexico's hard climb paradise. Only an hour from Monterrey and two hours from El Potrero Chico. El Salto is arguably the best sport climbing destination in Mexico, with steep, overhung limestone walls adorned with tufas, demanding power and endurance from the world’s top climbers. It's here that strong climbers from around the world come to test themselves on hundreds of 5.12s and 5.13s, as well as a handful of 5.14s.
Photo: David Ramiro on La Coyo y el Mictlán 5.14c (8c+) in El Salto. Photographer: @marcelaoutside.
What many don’t realize is that El Salto also hides a collection of 27 multipitch routes. But unlike the more moderate options in El Potrero, these multipitches stick to the advanced grades El Salto is known for. These routes bring world-class climbing with steep tufas and technical sequences that will test even the most seasoned climbers.
Here’s a look at the five most famous multipitch routes in El Salto that should be on your radar:
Sam Tucker during the First Free Ascend of Ibiza Club Weapon 5.14b
1. Ibiza Club Weapon (5.14b/8c) - La Psicodelia Wall
Considered the hardest multipitch climb in Mexico, Ibiza Club Weapon is a true test of power and technique. It was bolted by a group of Canadians Luke Dean, Nathan Hart, Tyson Martino and Ethan Somji and features seven demanding pitches, culminating in an extremely tough overhanging crux. The 250m route was freed by Sam Tucker in 2020. With its steep, tufa-draped limestone and sustained difficulty, Ibiza Club Weapon requires climbers to dig deep into their endurance reserves.
The breakdown of the Ibiza Club Weapon is:
5.13b,
5.13b,
5.12b,
5.13d,
5.14b,
5.12b,
5.13a,
Sahsa DiGiulian while sending Samandhi / Photographer: Juan Carlos Campos Taylor
2. Samadhi (5.13a/7c+) - La Sombra del Shaman Wall
Samadhi is a eight-pitch journey through overhanging tufas and intricate sequences, showcasing the world-class rock El Salto is known for. The route was equipped by prolific route-setter Jimmy Carse and first ascended by Jimmy Carse, Robin & Dieguito. While the original line stands as a test piece in its own right, there’s an even harder variation, Samadhi Direct, that has yet to be freed. This climb is for those looking to push their limits in both endurance and technique.
The breakdown of the Samandhi is:
5.10b,
5.10d,
5.10b,
5.12b,
5.13a,
5.12b,
5.11d,
5.13a,
On the picture you can see "La Sombra del Shaman" wall (Left), that features Samandhi and Shaman Loco. Photo: Zach Clanton
3. Shaman Loco (5.14b / 8b+) - La Sombra del Shaman Wall
Another stellar addition to La Sombra del Shaman, Shaman Loco offers climbers fourteen pitches of sustained climbing on steep, pumpy limestone. Bolted by by Margo Maggioni, Paolo
Marazzi, and Simone Pedeferri, the initial vision is credited to Paco Medina and Alex Patiño. The route features long tufa pulls and crimpy sequences that make for a challenging yet rewarding experience. This overhanging tufa climbing multipitch is must-climb, and the consistent difficulty throughout keeps things interesting all the way to the anchor.
The breakdown of Shaman Loco is:
5.10b,
5.8,
5.8,
5.12d,
5.12b,
5.13c,
5.12b,
5.14a/b,
5.13c/d
5.13d
5.11d
5.13c
5.13a
5.13c
4. Separation Anxiety (5.13+/8a) – Los Gatos Wall
Separation Anxiety, located on Chileros wall, pushes into the upper range of difficulty, clocking in at 5.13+. This route is famous for its mind-bendingly steep overhangs, requiring precise footwork and insane core strength. Climbers have described it as both mentally and physically exhausting, with every pitch presenting new challenges. This line was established by Micghael Perry and Clayton Regan, aiming to take full advantage of El Salto’s steep, tufa-filled walls, creating one of the most intense multipitch experiences in the region.
The breakdown of Separation Anxiety is:
5.7
5.13-
5.12-
5.13+
5.12-
5.13-
Total climb distance of 152m.
El Salto is rapidly becoming a destination for those looking to step up their sport climbing and multipitch game. It’s not just the beauty of the surrounding Sierra Madre mountains or the peaceful vibes of this hidden gem that attract climbers. It’s the pure quality of the climbing. If you’re seeking challenging, world-class routes that will push your limits, El Salto’s multi-pitches are waiting for you—just don’t forget to pack your endurance and a strong grip.
Sources:
Comments